While many vegetables will
grow just fine and produce
bountiful harvests from
seeds planted directly in
the ground, some need a head
start, especially in areas
with short growing seasons.
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Steps: |
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1. |
Read the information on the
seed packet. It will tell
you when to start your seeds
and what they need in the
way of soil and air
temperature, humidity and
light, as well as any
special pre-planting
treatment.
(Image 1) |
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2. |
Start seeds in a flat - a
shallow box, usually
plastic, between 2 1/4 and 4
inches deep with holes in
the bottom for drainage. You
can find flats and complete
seed-starting kits in most
garden catalogs or at your
local nursery.
(Image 2) |
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3. |
Fill the flat to about 1 1/4
inches from the top with a
sterile growing medium made
especially for starting
seeds. Put the filled flat
in a larger pan and add
water to about halfway up
the sides of the flat. Let
the flat stand overnight to
moisten the soil.
(Image 3) |
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4. |
Press the seeds into the
planting mix to the depth
recommended on the seed
packet. Water with a misting
spray bottle or with a fine
overhead spray from a
watering can. Keep the
growing medium evenly moist,
but never waterlogged.
(Image 4) |
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5. |
Ensure sufficient humidity
by placing a thin pane of
glass on top of the flat,
and keep it in a spot where
you can provide the soil and
air temperatures and the
amount of light recommended
on your seed packet.
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6. |
Make up for any deficiency
of sunlight by placing
fluorescent light about six
inches above the flat. Keep
the lights on around the
clock until the seeds
germinate. |
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7. |
Watch for signs of
germination: The first thing
you'll see will be a set of
what appear to be small
leaves. These are actually
food storage cells called
cotyledons. (Germination
times vary greatly; again,
your seed packet will tell
you when to expect the first
signs of life.) Continue to
water so that the soil stays
evenly moist. |
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8. |
Watch for the next step,
which will be the first set
of true leaves. When they
appear, thin the seedlings
to the spacing recommended
on the seed packet.
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9. |
Choose the smallest and
weakest-looking seedlings,
pull them out gently so you
don't disturb the remaining
plants, and add them to the
compost pile. Begin to feed
the plants once a week with
a water-soluble organic
fertilizer at 1/4 of the
directed strength.
(Image 5) |
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10. |
Transplant the seedlings to
individual pots filled with
potting soil when you see
two or three sets of leaves.
Just before transplanting,
water the seedlings, then
gently lift them out with a
spoon or a miniature trowel.
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11. |
Set each seedling into its
pot, carefully firming the
soil around the roots. Water
gently but well, and
continue feeding until it's
time to harden off the
plants and move them to the
garden. |
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click photos to enlarge
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4.
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5.
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Tips: |
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Though you can buy seedlings
of common vegetables such as
tomatoes and peppers at your
local nursery, you won't
find a fraction of the
colorful, flavorful
varieties you can choose
from if you start from seed.
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Some seeds need a period of
chilling before you plant
them; others need to be
soaked in water overnight or
scarified (nicked with a
file or knife) to speed
germination. Some seeds need
light to germinate; others
require total darkness. Read
your seed packets carefully.
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Peat pots make ideal homes
for transplanted seedlings,
because at planting time you
set pot itself into the
soil, thus avoiding damage
to delicate roots.
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Gardening is as much art as
science, and there are many
ways to do just about
everything. Over time,
you'll develop your own
methods, shortcuts and
tricks. |
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)